Can you machine-wash a snowmobile suit?

Often yes, on a gentle lukewarm cycle, but only if the label allows it. Some suits call for hand washing.

Why avoid fabric softener?

It leaves a film on the fabric that hurts the water repellent and the membrane's breathability.

How often should you wash your gear?

When it's dirty, when water stops beading, or at least before storing it for the season. Mud or salt left on for a long time damages fabric and zippers.

How do you dry snowmobile boots quickly?

Pull out the liners and insoles and air-dry them separately in a warm, ventilated room, without setting them directly on a heater.

When should you replace your gear?

When waterproofing doesn't come back despite care, seams come apart, or, for a helmet, after an impact. See our jackets and full selection at /gear.

Gear & Apparel

How to Wash, Dry and Store Technical Riding Gear

By the Groupe Contant Team · Published October 17, 2026

Quick Answer

How do you wash a snowmobile suit or a waterproof-breathable jacket?

Start with the care label. In general: close zippers and Velcro, wash in lukewarm water on a gentle cycle with a detergent made for technical clothing, with no fabric softener or bleach, then rinse well. Air-dry, or tumble on low if the label allows. When water stops beading on the surface, re-apply a durable water repellent (DWR) treatment. Store gear clean and dry, hanging, somewhere ventilated.

A dirty waterproof-breathable suit loses part of its breathability and water repellency: you end up colder and damper even though the fabric isn't worn out. Proper care extends your gear's life and keeps it performing.

This guide gives general advice for shells, insulated suits, gloves, helmets and boots. The care label and the manufacturer's instructions always come first.

Shells and Insulated Suits

Read the label — temperature, cycle, drying and dry cleaning vary with the fabric and insulation.
Prep the garment — empty pockets, close zippers, flaps and Velcro, remove removable armour.
Technical detergent — a detergent made for waterproof-breathable clothing cleans without leaving residue that clogs the membrane.
No fabric softener or bleach — softener leaves a film that hurts water repellency and breathability.
Rinse — an extra rinse cycle removes leftover detergent.
Dry — air-dry, or on low heat if the label allows; gentle heat often helps reactivate the water repellent. Never put the suit on a heater.

Reviving the DWR

The durable water repellent (DWR) makes water bead up on the outer fabric. When the fabric "wets out" and darkens instead of beading, the membrane breathes less and you feel damp. Wash the garment first: often, dirt alone stops water from beading.

If water still doesn't bead, apply a spray-on or wash-in water repellent, following the product's and the garment maker's instructions.

Gloves, Helmets and Boots

Gloves — follow the label; air-dry them fingers up, away from direct heat that stiffens leather and damages membranes. For heated gloves, remove the batteries and follow the maker's instructions.
Helmet — clean the shell with lukewarm soapy water and a soft cloth, no solvents. Many helmets have a removable, washable liner: check the manufacturer's guide. Let it air-dry.
Visor and lenses — lukewarm water and microfibre; avoid glass cleaner, which damages anti-fog coatings.
Boots — pull out liners and insoles, air-dry everything separately, and clean off mud before it dries on the seams.

Off-Season Storage

Store only clean, fully dry gear to avoid odours and mould.
Hang suits on a wide hanger without compressing them, to keep the insulation lofty.
Choose a dry, ventilated spot out of the sun; avoid airtight plastic bags.
Keep the helmet in its bag, away from solvents and gasoline; replace it after an impact or as the maker recommends — see our helmet guide.
For heated gear, store the batteries as the manufacturer instructs.